Banzai Pipeline in Summer at Ohau Hawaii

When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. ~ Laird Hamilton

“If the primary focus of of your life is the now, then you will be free from pain and suffering.” When you’re on a wave, time ceases exist, and you’re in a such an intense combined state of euphoria, peace, presence and excitement that it’s something you have to return over and over again. Once you realize that, to live any other way would seem completely insane.

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HT's Surf Mentawai's Indonesia
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Maldives surfing - boat trip
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