Rip Curl__.:´(`_ Pro Bells Beach 2010 MARC OCCHILUPO X TOM CURREN - CLÁSSICO DO SURF MUNDIAL

Wiping out is an underappreciated skill. ~ Laird Hamilton

While waiting, the brain releases dopamine in anticipation of a swell coming in, or when we think about the next time we’ll get a chance to catch waves. Dopamine is addictive, which causes us to obsessively think about when that next reward of fun waves will be delivered.

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