Surfing's Dark Side on the North Shore | The New York Times

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind. ~ Laird Hamilton

“If the primary focus of of your life is the now, then you will be free from pain and suffering.” When you’re on a wave, time ceases exist, and you’re in a such an intense combined state of euphoria, peace, presence and excitement that it’s something you have to return over and over again. Once you realize that, to live any other way would seem completely insane.

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Surfers take on huge waves. Bells Beach, Victoria. June 24th 2017. Music by Them Crooked Vultures.
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